RPK the beginning - Page 2

gunnysmith · 05-11-2007, 02:13 PM

The Saga continues.
Milling the bottom side and spotting and drilling the rivet holes.
The cross braces and rivets are on back order.

Marked and ready
Dykem blue with cutouts marked

cutting the mag well, trigger hole and pistol grip nut hole

Making sure the rear trunion is 90 degrees to the work table and in line with the drill bit

first look for hole center

different angle for centering the drill over the hole

The pilot hole is drilled after locating the trunion hole and slipping the receiver in place

locating rear trunion hole in receiver, the receiver will be slipped on the rear trunion and drilled, This is just one of many hole locating techniques

using the center drill to locate chuck over rear trunion hole for drilling through receiver

drilling both sides for rear trunion

rear trunion holed drilled through both sides receiver clamped to mill table

front trunion hole piloted

Aligning the Cener drill with front trunion locked in the vise

drilling the pilot hole

pilot hole drilled

Front trunion hole finished

Front and rear trunions fitted and tested, Carrier runs smooth

AKWARRIOR · 05-11-2007, 02:55 PM

Looks like you got the mag well and trigger slot finished to.

GARANDNUT · 05-11-2007, 03:34 PM

That is absolutely incredible!!

Cephus · 05-11-2007, 04:51 PM

It took me longer to down all of the pics than it would to make the weapon !!!!
LMAO
You did good Gunny !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

magnus392 · 05-12-2007, 11:41 AM

Sweet, I am screwed it my machining tasks get to be too much for a dremel or angle grinder

RetVet · 05-12-2007, 03:25 PM

Makes my building techniques look primitive, but a man can only do so much with a hand drill, dremel, and a few files.

gunnysmith · 05-12-2007, 09:46 PM

This is the timer circuit for my 220 volt HF spot welder.
It can be adjusted from 0 to 20 seconds in 1/10 sec increments.
Since the timer operates the relay and the relay operates the welder, the normal trigger switch has been removed.
A simple foot switch controls the start of the welding cycle and shuts off after the preset time is reached.
It can be readily adjusted, in time, for variable thickness of materials.

gunnysmith · 05-13-2007, 10:36 PM

Continuing on with the project

Testing the timer and welder, welding the rails

testing the time and pressure of the welder

The timer and relay

left rail. I have different diameter drill rod. I use the diameter that lines the lower rail with the trunion.

Right rail installed

Bolt carrier and bolt fully forward with upper and lower rails installed.

Ejector trimmed to bolt.

Cross bolt and rivet still on back order.

Moon · 05-13-2007, 10:51 PM

Wow ! I'm impressed !!

gunnysmith · 05-16-2007, 03:28 PM

The center support/ adjustable crossbolt.

¼ -20 bolt with 2 nuts is a temporary center support. Adjust the nuts until the rails are parallel front to back.

Measure the center support

Measure the adjustable cross bolt, and they are equal. If not shorten the center support to match the adjustable cross bolt.

gunnysmith · 05-18-2007, 09:28 PM

Plinker jig works extremely well factory side

Plinkers side

I had to make a new welder tip

Cephus · 05-18-2007, 10:00 PM

I for one would like to see more of the spotwelder .
You have done well on this one so far ,And I know I have been impressed with the tooling ya have done !!

gunnysmith · 05-19-2007, 12:52 PM

Here you go with pictures of the switch and welder

Cephus · 05-19-2007, 01:04 PM

Damn all of that stuff must have cost more than the welder !!
I'd like to get the 110 spot welder they do a great job without blowing holes in stuff !!!!

gunnysmith · 05-19-2007, 01:19 PM

About $60.00 for all of it and about $20.00 shipping.
It all come from Ebay.
I'm going to experiment with 120 volts to the welder for the thinner bent blanks. I still have the choice of going back to 220 volts for heavier materials.
That's why I got the 220 volt rather then the 120 volt. I'll let you know how it works.

With the timer, welding is quite precise.
With the welder set on 220 volts, tip pressure has to be set before welding, I do that with feeler guages.

05-11-2007, 02:13 PM	#16
gunnysmith Fear what you cannot see Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 6,730	The Saga continues. Milling the bottom side and spotting and drilling the rivet holes. The cross braces and rivets are on back order. Marked and ready Dykem blue with cutouts marked cutting the mag well, trigger hole and pistol grip nut hole Making sure the rear trunion is 90 degrees to the work table and in line with the drill bit first look for hole center different angle for centering the drill over the hole The pilot hole is drilled after locating the trunion hole and slipping the receiver in place locating rear trunion hole in receiver, the receiver will be slipped on the rear trunion and drilled, This is just one of many hole locating techniques using the center drill to locate chuck over rear trunion hole for drilling through receiver drilling both sides for rear trunion rear trunion holed drilled through both sides receiver clamped to mill table front trunion hole piloted Aligning the Cener drill with front trunion locked in the vise drilling the pilot hole pilot hole drilled Front trunion hole finished Front and rear trunions fitted and tested, Carrier runs smooth __________________ Every normal man must be tempted, at times, to spit on his hands, hoist the black flag, and begin slitting throats. H. L. Mencken

05-11-2007, 02:55 PM	#17
AKWARRIOR Gone Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Here and Now Posts: 13,454	Looks like you got the mag well and trigger slot finished to. __________________ WOLVERINES!!! "Guard with jealous attention the public liberty. Suspect every one who approaches that jewel. Unfortunately, nothing will preserve it but downright force. Whenever you give up that force, you are inevitably ruined"-Patrick Henry

05-11-2007, 04:51 PM	#19
Cephus The OLD COOT one and only Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Glovers Gap WV Posts: 10,277	It took me longer to down all of the pics than it would to make the weapon !!!! LMAO You did good Gunny !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! __________________ FREEDOM ONLY ACCEPTS ONE PRICE AND THAT IS BLOOD

05-12-2007, 11:41 AM	#20
magnus392 Thick Skulled Southerner Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: NETX Posts: 1,196	Sweet, I am screwed it my machining tasks get to be too much for a dremel or angle grinder __________________ "Its all over but the cryin'!" Moonshiner Are You lookin' at Muh Mun-Kee?

05-12-2007, 03:25 PM	#21
RetVet Statistical Error Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Homeless Posts: 43,703	Makes my building techniques look primitive, but a man can only do so much with a hand drill, dremel, and a few files. __________________ ^^^ For entertainment purposes. Use only as directed. ^^^ III

05-11-2007, 03:34 PM	#18
GARANDNUT Pontificator Maximus Join Date: May 2006 Location: between the hills Posts: 8,753	That is absolutely incredible!!

05-12-2007, 09:46 PM	#22
gunnysmith Fear what you cannot see Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 6,730	This is the timer circuit for my 220 volt HF spot welder. It can be adjusted from 0 to 20 seconds in 1/10 sec increments. Since the timer operates the relay and the relay operates the welder, the normal trigger switch has been removed. A simple foot switch controls the start of the welding cycle and shuts off after the preset time is reached. It can be readily adjusted, in time, for variable thickness of materials.

05-13-2007, 10:36 PM	#23
gunnysmith Fear what you cannot see Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 6,730	Continuing on with the project Testing the timer and welder, welding the rails testing the time and pressure of the welder The timer and relay left rail. I have different diameter drill rod. I use the diameter that lines the lower rail with the trunion. Right rail installed Bolt carrier and bolt fully forward with upper and lower rails installed. Ejector trimmed to bolt. Cross bolt and rivet still on back order.

05-13-2007, 10:51 PM	#24
Moon IncogNegro Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 5,825	Wow ! I'm impressed !! __________________ "Thou shalt not be a son-of-a-bitch". Magnus392, from Rules of Chuck 00011

05-16-2007, 03:28 PM	#25
gunnysmith Fear what you cannot see Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 6,730	The center support/ adjustable crossbolt. ¼ -20 bolt with 2 nuts is a temporary center support. Adjust the nuts until the rails are parallel front to back. Measure the center support Measure the adjustable cross bolt, and they are equal. If not shorten the center support to match the adjustable cross bolt.

05-18-2007, 09:28 PM	#26
gunnysmith Fear what you cannot see Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 6,730	Plinker jig works extremely well factory side Plinkers side I had to make a new welder tip

05-18-2007, 10:00 PM	#27
Cephus The OLD COOT one and only Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Glovers Gap WV Posts: 10,277	I for one would like to see more of the spotwelder . You have done well on this one so far ,And I know I have been impressed with the tooling ya have done !!

05-19-2007, 12:52 PM	#28
gunnysmith Fear what you cannot see Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 6,730	Here you go with pictures of the switch and welder

05-19-2007, 01:04 PM	#29
Cephus The OLD COOT one and only Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Glovers Gap WV Posts: 10,277	Damn all of that stuff must have cost more than the welder !! I'd like to get the 110 spot welder they do a great job without blowing holes in stuff !!!!

05-19-2007, 01:19 PM	#30
gunnysmith Fear what you cannot see Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 6,730	About $60.00 for all of it and about $20.00 shipping. It all come from Ebay. I'm going to experiment with 120 volts to the welder for the thinner bent blanks. I still have the choice of going back to 220 volts for heavier materials. That's why I got the 220 volt rather then the 120 volt. I'll let you know how it works. With the timer, welding is quite precise. With the welder set on 220 volts, tip pressure has to be set before welding, I do that with feeler guages.