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Old 03-31-2011, 12:52 PM   #16
5knives
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I should have mentioned that unlike Fr. Frogs tests, I leave the ammonia on for a couple hours not 15-20 minutes. With a bad milsurp I've plugedthe bbl. filled her up and left her overnight, clean with a STEEL brush, then oil.

Always seemed to work okay.

New bbl, I do believe it's essential to clean well before round one, and after every round through 10-12 or so. Just seeme to foul less and clean easier in the future.

Critical in case any one doesn't know, but you MUST clean between cast and jacketed, and between jacketed and cast!

Please trust me on that one, handguns as well as long arms.

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Old 03-31-2011, 05:38 PM   #17
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I should have mentioned that unlike Fr. Frogs tests, I leave the ammonia on for a couple hours not 15-20 minutes. With a bad milsurp I've plugedthe bbl. filled her up and left her overnight, clean with a STEEL brush, then oil.

Always seemed to work okay.

New bbl, I do believe it's essential to clean well before round one, and after every round through 10-12 or so. Just seeme to foul less and clean easier in the future.

Critical in case any one doesn't know, but you MUST clean between cast and jacketed, and between jacketed and cast!

Please trust me on that one, handguns as well as long arms.

Regards,
...
Do you use uncut ammonia?
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Old 03-31-2011, 10:37 PM   #18
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Do you use uncut ammonia?
Uncut household ammonia yes, it's already quite diluted, that's why I ended up plugging the bores on the bad ones and letting them soak for a few hours, let a couple 1917 Enfields go overnight, with no observable problems. But both were seriously fouled and of course had seen most of their service life with corrosive primers.

Bores came out looking pretty good. accuracy on both was quite aceptable.

One of them with a new Target Stock and sights and some trigger work but the original barrel won some matches for me many many years ago.

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Old 04-01-2011, 04:15 PM   #19
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I put paper towels in the barrel soaked with whatever.... paper towels come out blue... repeat...

My gunsmith shot down the electrolisys as destroying the rifiling along with removing the fouling?
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Old 04-04-2011, 08:16 PM   #20
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Default the wqay i found works best but slow !

grease a shot cartridge outside -place in chamber -close bolt now fill bore from front muzzle with ballistol ....leave for 7 to 10 days clean out with issos nylon brush ......this is very safe to the bore .....
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Old 04-05-2011, 02:40 AM   #21
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Wipe-out ( http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/si...SS_BORE_CLEANE ) is a very effective foam for cleaning out stubborn copper from barrels. It is also ammonia free, which some people think is a good idea as ammonia can cause microscopic cracks in barrels. Which in turn attract more copper...
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Old 04-06-2011, 06:56 PM   #22
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I put paper towels in the barrel soaked with whatever.... paper towels come out blue... repeat...

My gunsmith shot down the electrolisys as destroying the rifiling along with removing the fouling?
That is why you use a low powered flashlight and batteries rather than a dedicated power supply. You want to just etch the copper off without taking the edge off of the rifling.

At the place I work one of the things that we do is put nickel plating on a copper water jacket for wear protection.

The final cleaning process involves what is called reverse etching. Basically you drop a lead anode into the cavity that gets plated, fill the cavity with Phosphoric acid, and turn the plating power supply on reverse. This take all the junk out of the pores of the metal as a final prep before you plate the nickel on it. This junk deposits itself onto the lead anode. It is amazing what you get out of the pores in only about 15 minutes of reverse etching.

This is the same process that they are using to remove the copper fouling, only on a larger scale.

Our plating power supplies are rated at 12 volts DC and 2000 amps for the larger pieces and 12 volts at 300 amps for smaller stuff. For customers that want an industrial hard chrome over the nickel, that power supply is capable of 10,000 amps at 12 volts DC.

One time one of the plating guys forgot to turn the supply to forward current. That thing etched itself into the nickel bath for 3 days. The 2,000 pound copper water jacket turned itself into what looked like a big half melted Popsicle!!

I thought that the plater (who happens to be a highly strung person on the best of days) was going to commit Harakiri on the spot when he pulled that mess out.

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Old 05-11-2011, 09:44 PM   #23
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Default VERY TRUE!

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Wipe-out ( http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/si...SS_BORE_CLEANE ) is a very effective foam for cleaning out stubborn copper from barrels. It is also ammonia free, which some people think is a good idea as ammonia can cause microscopic cracks in barrels. Which in turn attract more copper...
which some people think is a good idea as ammonia can cause microscopic cracks in barrels. it eats in the steel and rust happens next ...sweets 762 has it and its very bad for the barrel
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Old 05-14-2011, 06:59 AM   #24
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Quote:
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Wipe-out ( http://www.sinclairintl.com/.aspx/si...SS_BORE_CLEANE ) is a very effective foam for cleaning out stubborn copper from barrels. It is also ammonia free, which some people think is a good idea as ammonia can cause microscopic cracks in barrels. Which in turn attract more copper...
Another vote for this product. Have tried and it WORKS as advertised. Makes all the other methods seem silly once you've tried it.

Just do NOT get it on your finished stock. Probably best if you just remove the stock until you're happy with the bore.

Fill the bore with foam. Set rifle level so the stuff doesn't leak out and forget it till the next day. Swipe out the bore with patches until they stop coming out blue and inspect barrel. If your bore is bad, you may need second treatment. But it's easy compared to the other silliness.
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Old 05-25-2011, 12:30 AM   #25
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Outers foul-out has never failed me, nor harmed the rifling in any way.
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Old 05-27-2011, 02:08 PM   #26
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One product....Sweets 7.62.That stuff has done a great job of pulling 60 years of fouling out of milsurps for me and it stops corrosive ammo to.
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Old 06-19-2011, 12:52 PM   #27
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Copperzilla in conjuction with standard Gunzilla solvent works in the old Garand.
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